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Ray Mid Slider

This is Ray G's Slider.

I've searched the internet and have not been able to find anyone else that has done a MID Motor Slider. I was amazed at how simple it actually was. Took the car apart one day to clean and rebuild and was just playing around and Bam all the pieces just fit together.

The biggest thing killing me right now is the 3 degree toe at the rear and the fact that this mod cost me very little and I want to see if I can keep it that way. I'm not going to run the aluminum hubs with 1 or 2 degree toe unless I absolutely have to. I want to mess with inboard adjustable toe somehow. (Pictures of what I did under "Tips and Tricks".)

For anti-squat I'm using the Traxxas wedges that come in 1.5 and 3 degrees. More support than just washers.

I did lengthen to chassis about half an inch by drilling new holes in the chassis for the back of the front clip. The servo mount pins now touch the front of the chassis. Guys here that run the slider have been shortening the chassis to try and get the car to rotate. I really think all the weight behind the rear axle was the issue. I've always felt better with a longer chassis with any car on this track because of the long straights. Car just feels more stable. Might run into issues on a shorter track. I think the short wheel base was just changing the ackerman angles and turn radius. This car handles completely different with the motor repositioned.

In order to run foams on the front I used RPM spindles for the Associated B4 with the longer B4 axles. The spindles are longer and it messed with the ackerman. The wheels actually turned equally. I run the left on the right and the right on the left to lower the ride height. You can see in the pictures. I replaced the center steering link with turnbuckle and made it just a little shorter. Drove the car before and after and it made an incredibly huge difference. Worked perfect, and now I can adjust ackerman. One more thing to play with. This is the one thing I haven't told the guys at the track that I did yet.

There is still a little bit of flex in the chassis that I need to get rid of. Just haven't decided how I want to do this yet.

I'm running RC4LESS springs. I don't like the Losi springs. They are too long for the shocks in my opinion. Even with the shock collars all the way up you can't get the car to sit dog bone level. I prefer not to cut springs if I don't have to.

Click on pictures to enlarge them and show Ray's text.

The shocks now mount on the back of the arms. They end up with a slight angle front to rear. Got rid of most of it with a brass cone washer on the bottom shock screw. I also replaced the plastic shock end with some Traxxas ones that were a little longer, just a few mm. The arms ended up really level and the longer rod ends got the arms to drop about the same as the stock did. To reverse the transmission you need to drill 3 holes, two for the trans, one for the tower and notch the pivot/toe plate just a tad. The square hole is not centered in the plate. Shock tower gets mounted backwards and you can still use the upper transmission supports. Swap the hubs so the camber links are a little straighter. They are 0 degree hubs. You end up with a little bit of an angle on the camber links front to back,(up down stays same). I'm not sure it is having a negative effect on handling even though it might be messing with camber gain. Looking for some different hubs to get rid of the angle. Can't do anything on the shock tower cause the spur gear is too close.<br>You need to reverse the diff in the transmission. I'm running a Novak Ballistic 5.5 with a Tekin RS Pro. The motor came with 15 degree timing on the can. You have to swing this the opposite way past 0, or close to 0 if you're running sensored and set the speed control to run reverse. I've seen a couple brushless motors that wont left you go below 0. The transmission is a stock case with RC10GT diff inside. One of the guys at the track builds them. They are bulletproof.

To reverse the transmission you need to drill 3 holes, two for the trans, one for the tower and notch the pivot/toe plate just a tad. The square hole is not centered in the plate. Shock tower gets mounted backwards and you can still use the upper transmission supports. Swap the hubs so the camber links are a little straighter. They are 0 degree hubs. You end up with a little bit of an angle on the camber links front to back,(up down stays same). I'm not sure it is having a negative effect on handling even though it might be messing with camber gain. Looking for some different hubs to get rid of the angle. Can't do anything on the shock tower cause the spur gear is too close.<br>You need to reverse the diff in the transmission. I'm running a Novak Ballistic 5.5 with a Tekin RS Pro. The motor came with 15 degree timing on the can. You have to swing this the opposite way past 0, or close to 0 if you're running sensored and set the speed control to run reverse. I've seen a couple brushless motors that wont left you go below 0. The transmission is a stock case with RC10GT diff inside. One of the guys at the track builds them. They are bulletproof. The rear bulkhead that holds the receiver and ESC was turned around. The matching legs use two screws each. I reused the front holes in the chassis and drilled two new holes so basically its turned around and slid forward half an inch. Then I had to fab a short piece to attach the front of the transmission to the back of this support to get rid of the flex. I also cut off the single leg in the front so I could slide my batteries in. I wrapped a velcro strap in between the rear posts for a battery support and wrapped some foam to support the battery. I'm unable to use a normal stick pack. I'm using two shorter 2s 2200mah in parallel. You loose a lot of room when you reverse the motor. In the front I use another velcro strap thru the holes in the front clip, which I upgraded to aluminum cause I got a good deal on it. I was hoping to see what you were going to do with the front on the Super Slider. I envisioned a new longer chassis eliminating the front clip which would give room for normal batteries. The roll cage hinging so it flips up happened by accident. I left the two screws off the front Y support after putting the cage back on. The next time I went to remove it I just undid the 4 screw for the down posts in the front and left the rear hoop alone. It just flipped up. So easy to work on the car now. I'll prob add some sort of quick release pins later. I did buy a roll cage and used two left sides and cut and fit the rear hoop to get rid of the slipper bulge.

I normally use internal limiters on the shocks and with good success and totally understand where you're coming from. I like to let the suspension breathe, make sure the tires stay on the ground. One day a buddy and I were talking about how my car was handling after watching it run. He used to be a team driver for Customworks and Losi so I often use him for setup help. The front just seemed to float/lift quite a bit and he suggested I play with internal limiting, add spacers one at a time. Not what I wanted to hear. I hate rebuilding shocks. I joked about droop screws, said I'd put them on figure out what the shock length needed to be and then put the limiter inside and remove the droop screws. So I put the car on the track and started adjusting. I knocked 2 tenths of a second off my lap times and the car was never more consistent. If I hadn't actually done it myself I would not have believed it. This is a new mod so I'm going to play with it a little more before I just go and toss it.

I normally use internal limiters on the shocks and with good success and totally understand where you're coming from. I like to let the suspension breathe, make sure the tires stay on the ground. One day a buddy and I were talking about how my car was handling after watching it run. He used to be a team driver for Customworks and Losi so I often use him for setup help. The front just seemed to float/lift quite a bit and he suggested I play with internal limiting, add spacers one at a time. Not what I wanted to hear. I hate rebuilding shocks. I joked about droop screws, said I'd put them on figure out what the shock length needed to be and then put the limiter inside and remove the droop screws. So I put the car on the track and started adjusting. I knocked 2 tenths of a second off my lap times and the car was never more consistent. If I hadn't actually done it myself I would not have believed it. This is a new mod so I'm going to play with it a little more before I just go and toss it.